PROBLEM:
LOSS OF THE RUST PREVENTOR DEVICE CALLED THE ANODE ROD:
All glass-lined water heaters have rods of solid metal, usually magnesium suspended in the tank. The sole purpose of these rods is to slowly corrode away so that the tank will not. Called sacrificial anodes, the rods sacrifice” themselves to protect the steel tank from rusting.
CURE:
Inspect the anodes regularly and replace when needed. Generally every 3-5 years in hard water areas and where acid water is a problem, or water is softened, inspect every 1-2 years.
Look at the top of your water heater to locate the anode rod. In most cases the hex head is exposed and in some cases it is hidden under the sheet metal cover. If exposed a 1 1/16” 6 point socket with long breaker bar will be required to remove it. If hidden an easy solution would be to remove the nipple on the hot water side with a pipe wrench and install a nipple outlet anode rod.
Most gas or electric water heaters require a standard rod length of 44”. On some tall electric or solar storage tanks a rod 51” in length would be required. If the ceiling height over a heater is a problem in installing the anode rod, an anode rod which has sausage links can be bent into place or a hole cut above the heater to the attic can accommodate installations. Magnesium rods are supplied as standard.
When a rotten egg is a smell problem, we supply a zinc aluminum rod to combat this problem.
When you install a water heater, add a second anode to your new tank to add to its life from the outset. (Water heater manufacturers know that loss of anode rod protection is a major cause of water heater failure.) Their warranties reflect this. With one anode as standard equipment, they offer a 6-year warranty. To extend heater life, they add a second rod, charge you a lot more money, and issue a 12-year warranty.
Purchase a 6 year tank, 1 year parts warranted water heater with R/19 insulation jacket for excellent heat retention. Add a second anode rod for superior corrosion protection and a curved dip tube and full port ball drain valve for ease of sediment flushing. Install flexible copper pipe connections or solid connections with compression unions for ease of future maintenance.
Periodic inspection of the anode should be made to establish the rate, by visual inspection, of the anode usage or deterioration.
The anode should be replaced when there is 6” or more exposed core wire at either end.
Rheem Manufacturing Company, \Vaier Heater Division, June. 1988.
If these rods are not replaced when necessary, you will eventually be faced with buying a new heater. Replacing the anode rod is much cheaper.
Carey Bros ON THE HOUSE, San Francisco Examiner, April 1. 1992.
... preventive maintenance can more than double the 10-to-15 year life of a typical water heater... simply inspect the anode... every two years.
U.S. News and Worid Report, June 1988, page. 74.
CURE FOR SMELLY WATER PROBLEMS: |
 |
|---|---|
Remove existing anode rod or rods. Drain out 2 quarts of water from water heater. Add 2 pints of 3% hydrogen peroxide (available at drug stores) through anode rod hole. Install an aluminum zinc rod, or Power Anode. Pressurize water heater and let stand 20-30 minutes. Purge all of the hot taps individually until warm water comes out of the tap. Finally flush heater under pressure through drain valve for 5 minutes. To achieve superior results install a curved dip tube and full port ball valve for a turbo flush. (refer to TankSaver Kit installation manual for instructions). YOU'LL LOVE THE RESULTS. |
|